How to Grow Chiritas
by John Boggan
(From Petal Tones Volume 28, Number 9 May 2000–The newsletter of the National Capital Area Chapter of the American Gloxinia and Gesneriad Society.)
The popularity of the rosette chiritas is growing by leaps and bounds, perhaps because they are so easy to grow, and are similar in growth habit and cultural requirements to their better-known cousins, the African violet (genus Saintpaulia). The most common chirita in cultivation is Chirita sinensis, but many other species and hybrids have recently been introduced. Some chiritas are annuals or shrubby perennials, but these are less commonly grown and have different cultural requirements. The cultural tips described here are for the perennial rosette chiritas, C. sinensis and its relatives. If you can grow African violets, you can grow chiritas.
Chirita sinensis ‘Hisako’
Soil Chiritas require a potting mix that is neither heavy nor wet. They can be grown in the same potting mix as African violets. Adding extra perlite will help keep the soil well-aerated and well-drained, especially if you grow plants on mats or wicks, or tend to over water your plants. Extra lime in the form of 1-2 tablespoons of powdered, pelleted, or chipped dolomitic lime per quart of potting mix is helpful, especially if you live in a region with soft water. If you live in an area with hard tap water, using this to water the plants will supply most of the lime they need. Believe it or not, these are plants that will appreciate a crusty lime buildup!
Water During the growing season, chiritas should be kept evenly moist, but never wet. This requirement goes hand-in-hand with having a well-drained and well-aerated soil. Chiritas are quite tolerant of drying out, but may rot if kept too wet. They can be grown successfully on wicks, but if you use this method, you must use an especially light and porous soil. Wicking may promote large, lush growth-a disadvantage if you are trying to grow compact plants.
Fertilizer Chiritas are not heavy feeders. Use the same Chirita sinensis ‘Hisako’ fertilizers you use for your other gesneriads, but mixed at about half the usual strength. I find that a bit of bone meal in the soil (about 1 tablespoon to each quart of potting mix) helps produce strong, healthy plants. Some growers claim that fertilizers with a high urea content may produce an unsightly orange "crud" on the plants, as is sometimes the case with Saintpaulia and Streptocarpus. This is not usually a problem if you fertilize with a light touch.
Light Light requirements are nearly the same as for African violets. Bright indirect light is perfect. Chiritas can be grown under fluorescent lights, but they are also excellent choices for windowsill growing. They do not require intense light and direct mid-day sun will bleach or scorch the leaves. A window that gets early morning or late afternoon sun, or even a bright north window, is perfect. The plants should be turned occasionally to encourage symmetrical growth. When they bloom, all the flowers will turn towards the light so turn the pot more frequently.
Temperature and humidity Chiritas will do well in the same temperature and humidity range that most people find comfortable. They do not like high temperatures but most will tolerate cool temperatures, down to 40E F with some of the hardier species taking freezing temperatures for short periods in the winter. Try that with an African violet! Repotting Chiritas do not need frequent repotting. They often grow in crevices in cliffs and on rocky hillsides in the wild, where they do not get lots of root room.
Repotting once a year, in the spring as they begin to put out new growth, should suffice. In fact, chiritas can be grown in the same pot and same soil without repotting for two and even three years without any harm to the plant. A well-grown chirita will often look under potted, and keeping them potbound will encourage flowering and more compact growth. When repotting, remove the outermost 1 or 2 pairs or whorls of leaves to reduce stress on the plant.
Propagation The species can be grown from seed, but all chiritas can be grown very easily from leaf cuttings, exactly like Saintpaulia. Take a leaf from one of the middle rows in the spring or early summer, while the plant is actively growing, and root it in your normal soil mix in a plastic bag. Leaf cuttings will usually root quickly but production of new plants can be slow. Leaves planted in late summer or fall may not produce new plants until the spring. Be patient; new plants may take up to a year to bloom. Some chiritas produce suckers that can be removed and rooted, producing a blooming-sized plant in a much shorter time. Chirita hybrids will not come true from seed, and seedlings should not be labeled with the cultivar name of the parent. Most of the hybrids are sterile and must be propagated by leaf cuttings or suckers anyway.
Winter care Most of the rosette chiritas have a semi-dormant period in winter, when they will grow more slowly and stop blooming. This is especially true of plants grown on a windowsill, where they are exposed to seasonal changes in light and temperature. They should be watered a bit less during the winter, and not fertilized at all. Seasonal changes in day length and temperature promote heavy spring blooming in several species. They will reward you with a burst of bloom, and some of them will continue to bloom throughout the summer and into the fall. Plants grown under artificial lights may grow and bloom year round, but may not bloom as heavily at one time.
Common problems The rosette chiritas have essentially the same problems and pests as Saintpaulia. The most destructive pests are cyclamen and broad mites, which cause tight centers and distorted new growth. High temperatures and/or too much light will sometimes cause the leaves to take on a bronzed coloration, but this is harmless. Some growers claim this can also be caused by over fertilizing. Failure to bloom is often an indication that a plant is still immature, but may also be due to insufficient light. Some species and cultivars naturally produce long necks or even "trunks" as they lose their lower leaves; this can be covered up by potting the plant deeper in the pot, or it can be emphasized for a sculptural effect.
Single-crowned or multi-crowned? To a certain extent, this depends on the grower's preference. Many chiritas sucker naturally and form tight bunches of leaves. Thinning out these suckers (save them for propagation!) will often produce a better-looking plant. In my own opinion, the narrow-leafed species and cultivars look better grown multi-crowned than those with broader leaves. Some species also produce long trunk-like stems with branches, and these can be sculpted for a bonsai-like effect.
Chirita tamiana
Nearly all of the rosette chiritas are easy to grow. In a recent survey of the members of the Gesneriphiles internet list, the following were rated highly:
C. linearifolia: an old favorite with long, very narrow leaves, this species generally produces a long branched "trunk" and is often exhibited as a bonsai-like specimen. The small pink flowers are produced in a flush in the spring.
C. sinensis 'Hisako': resulting from a cross between two different forms of the species, this cultivar has beautiful dark green leaves heavily marked with silver, forming a perfectly symmetrical rosette with very little attention. Although sometimes reluctant to bloom, it makes an absolutely stunning foliage plant. A well-grown plant is a show-stopper even without flowers. C. Sp. ‘New York’: grown for m any years as
C. pteropoda and sometimes listed under that name in catalogs, this still-unidentified species with glossy leaves can grow large but is extremely floriferous, essentially ever blooming, and the pale yellow flowers are unlike those of any other Chirita. It seems to prefer warmer temperatures than many of the other rosette chiritas.
C. tamiana: coming from northern Vietnam, this recent introduction was voted favorite species, easiest to grow, and most recommended for beginners. Chirita tamiana is a true miniature with foliage like an African violet but daintywhite flowers marked with purple that look more like those of a Streptocarpus. Fast and easy to grow from seed or from leaf cuttings, in continuous bloom, and sure to rival Sinningia pusilla 'White Sprite' as the most popular miniature gesneriad.
C. 'Aiko': without doubt one of the best Chirita hybrids so far, 'Aiko' has bright yellow flowers like C. eburnea but is much easier to bloom and is more floriferous.
C. 'Kazu': only recently named, but long distributed as the unnamed cross Chirita "latifolia x linearifolia", 'Kazu' is a compact plant with narrow leaves, tends to sucker, and is incredibly floriferous with dainty purple flowers.